Secrets and Saints

"Secret San Ginesio" was last night and it was fantastic in a slightly surreal way that you just couldn't make up. It started with a walk down to the main gates where trestle tables and a temporary kitchen had been set up to serve pizza. Then back to the main square to join a group for a guided tour of the village. We were standing in the art gallery with everyone when a medieval knight approached (common place round these parts) and inquired if were we the people who had asked if anyone could take them round and explain things in English? So began an enlightening and extremely amusing 2 hours with Roberto, a local chartered accountant/ historian who regaled us with very entertaining tales. The pope gave the town (there were 20,000 inhabitants in the Middle Ages) the relics of San Ginesio to protect them. Except when they arrived home and unpacked his bones they discovered 2 left arms. There is a San Genesio in Tuscany so maybe their saint has 2 right arms?
We also learned that when people died their bodies couldn't be taken through the same doorways as the living so "death doors" were created next to the front door and during epidemics they remained unsealed as they were used so often.
We were especially lucky to see inside the church of Saints Tommaso and Barnaba, which is home to the Brotherhood of the Sacconi. Membership passes down through families although Roberto, our medieval guide, is lobbying to join. The Brotherhood was established to promote Christian virtue and they were renown for their excellent flagellation. In fact I think it was the flagellation and piety that led to the Pope giving them the 2 left armed relics but don't quote me on that. The head of the Brotherhood showed us around their museum and the first thing we saw when the lights went on, was the hooded outfit they wear on sacred occasions, (just like Clan hoods) which I suppose was to hide their identity. They lead the procession of the cross around the town on Good Friday. It was a brilliant night that ended with a midnight beer in the square.