Thursday 29 July 2010

The Peggy Guggenheim welcome


We went to the Guggenheim museum this morning, which is housed in the palazzo where Peggy Guggenheim lived for the last 30 years of her life. This statue is on the steps at the entrance to her home. When asked how many husbands she had had, she replied, “mine or other people’s?”. And I think the count was high. When it was built her palazzo caused problems for the foundations of the neighbouring buildings, which is why (unusually) it only has 2 floors and is overlooked by all the surrounding buildings. The Police Chief , whose office was opposite, always said he knew when spring had arrived as Ms Guggenheim would be sunbathing nude on her roof terrace. By all accounts she had very decadent parties on the terrace and the Grand Canal would be dredged the following day to retrieve all the champagne bottles that were chucked in. Centuries before the fashion was to have lavish parties and chuck all the gold plates into the canal.

We found a great place for lunch, tucked into the back streets and where most of the clientele appeared to be Italian and you ate what was put in front of you. There was a table of Gondoliers next to us and we later spotted one of them on a Gondolier calendar (Mr August) at a nearby bookstall, next to the calendar of priests (which just doesn’t seem right on many levels).

2 comments:

  1. Loving the posts and the shoes x

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  2. The shoes are superior, it has to be said.

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